Wine & Cheese #2

In the pursuit of any great artistic or artisanal creation, there must be healthy debate. Not only do differing opinions and criticism keep good artists and artisans sharp and thinking about their next creation, it also helps the consumers of those creations make educated decisions about what they might prefer. If you are reading this newsletter in the first place, you probably think about your food and wine already, so consider this issue of the newsletter one more thing to chew on.

The debate over pasteurization is an interesting one, and has good arguments on both sides. Pasteurized milk must be heated to a relatively high temperature - between 145 and 160º - for varying amounts of time. This process destroys some harmful bacteria and leads to longer shelf-life of the milk. At the same time, the heat also breaks down certain flavor-producing enzymes, so cheese made from this milk has less potential for developing the subtleties and nuances of flavor and aroma of its raw milk counterparts. In the U.S., cheeses made from raw milk (like Roquefort, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and two of our offerings this month) must be aged at least 60 days before being sold. The idea behind this mandatory aging is for the cheese to lose sufficient moisture and have high enough salt content to inhibit harmful bacterial growth. Younger soft-ripened raw milk cheeses like Camembert are still made and consumed in Europe, where we haven’t seen any mass extinction of cheese eaters, but the merits of these laws is a discussion for another day.

This is not to say that cheese made from pasteurized milk can’t be good. On the contrary, there are many examples of these outstanding cheeses, two of which we’ll introduce in this month’s newsletter. If a skilled cheesemaker uses high quality milk (pasteurized or not), great things can happen.

Raw milk cheeses do have some inherent advantages. In addition to retaining an array of bacteria and enzymes, they also hold untouched some off those compounds that come from the animal’s food. In other words, if the cow whose milk made a particular cheese happens to have feasted on grasses and flowers, suggestions of those grassy and floral aromas and flavors will often show up if the cheese is well made.

With all this in mind, I couldn’t help thinking about the connection between the wine- and cheese-making processes. As I mentioned in last month’s newsletter, both are deceptively simple. That is, they each produce marvelously interesting and complex results from relatively mundane raw ingredients. Yet it is the handling and combinations of those ingredients that can work such wonders. The culturing process in cheese employs a specific bacteria whose job it is to produce lactic acid, acidifying the milk in anticipation of the addition of rennet, which separates the milk into curds and whey. In the winemaking process, similar bacteria are used to convert the overtly tart malic acid into the softer lactic acid in a process called malolactic fermentation.

Much like the questions over raw milk, there also exists considerable debate among winemakers over the issue of filtration. Just as pasteurization can remove some desirable elements from the milk, so can excessive filtering sometimes strip a multidimensional and unique wine of its character. And just as with cheese, there is nothing to say that a winemaker who chooses to filter a wine can’t put something great in the bottle nonetheless. But many wine lovers would agree that regardless of the wine, its ultimate character and especially the expression of where it comes from are best preserved by bottling it unfiltered.

So, you may be asking yourself, what about this month’s cheeses? As promised, this month we found some interesting and beautiful selections, different enough to warrant your attention, but not so wild and stinky that you won’t want to open your refrigerator! In order to explore the attributes of both styles, we are featuring one pasteurized and one raw milk cheese each from both North America and Europe. The wines mentioned here are intended to pair with the featured cheeses quite well, but like I always say, as long as you like the cheese and the wine on their own, chances are you’ll be happy eating the two together.

To North America first! Fog Lights is a beautiful pasteurized goat milk cheese from California, mild and bright, with the distinctive tangy creaminess that I love in good goat cheese. There is a slight earthiness weaving through the tang that keeps the flavors mellow, and the texture reminds me of a slightly drier version of a great fresh chèvre. To accompany this cheese, a touch of richness and fruit in your wine wouldn’t hurt a bit. Take for example an Alsatian Pinot Gris, full and fat and gleaming with glassy fruits and minerals, balanced by an acidity that keeps its considerable size in check. The tang of the cheese and the fullness of the wine would balance each other beautifully. Dry rosé also comes to mind, especially because the Fog Lights tastes so fresh and bright it makes me want to have it for dinner with nothing else but a baguette and a cool, crisp glass of pink wine.

Moving a bit northward we find the Filou, a raw milk goat cheese from Quebec. This cheese has been patiently aging a while, to a point where is once runny interior has firmed up a bit and its flavors have evolved from young and tangy to a deeper grassy earthiness, with just a touch of stinkiness starting to creep in. This would be delicious with a southern French white, based on Viognier, Marsanne or Rousanne. These whites tend to be full bodied and floral. They are fruity to be sure, but with sufficient acidity to keep them refreshingly dry.

From Europe we have a pair of cheeses, once again pitting pasteurized against raw milk. Rocchetta, a fresh Robiola-styled pasteurized milk cheese from Piedmont in northern Italy, is made from a blend of cow, sheep, and goat milk. This cheese combines the best aspects of all three milks, lending a sense of sturdiness from the cow, a fresh bite from the goat, and a salty, satisfying creaminess from the sheep. Its texture is airy, and yet surrounding every bit of lightness is a sense of creamy richness that is almost indescribable. No doubt this cheese would be made with raw milk if you bought it in Italy, but as I mentioned before, its youth precludes that possibility here in the States. I have wonderful memories of sitting behind a 12^th century farmhouse, looking out toward the sunset-lit silhouette of the city of Orvieto, eating a strikingly similar cheese and drinking a glass of fresh, crisp Grecchetto. This wine, along with its cousin Orvieto Classico (or any other finely-tuned, light, dry Italian white – perhaps Vernaccia?) would be a perfect match to this cheese.

The first time I tasted our final cheese, I assumed we had stayed in Italy. The sepia-tinged color, the nutty, gently sharp flavors, the crumbly, flaky, fine-grained texture, all spoke clearly of fine Parmigiano-Reggiano. I was shocked to learn that in fact my adoration was leveled at a 4 Year-Aged Dutch Farmhouse Gouda. One taste of this raw milk cow cheese (not to mention one look!) will immediately change the way you think about this once mundane cheese. What to drink with this beauty? Try a medium-bodied Italian Sangiovese or Barbera, full of ripe red fruit to play with the sharpness of the Gouda, and with enough crackling acidity to balance the oily richness of the cheese. Beer would not be out of the question here at all – think of a weight, golden brown German Doppelbock that deftly balances its malty, nutty sweetness with a refreshing dose of gently bitter hops.

Now that we’ve introduced a few exciting and unique cheeses, some made from pasteurized milk and some raw, you can feel free to dive right into the debate. The great thing is, either side you choose you’re guaranteed delicious cheese!

©2008 Alex Meier-Tomkins

Meatloaf is So Tasty

Yes, that's right, meatloaf. I remember years ago when I would cringe every time my dad told us it was meatloaf night. I'm not sure why I detested it so. I wasn't a particularly picky eater, but perhaps the ground turkey texture just threw me off.

So for the last few weeks I've been thinking about a new approach, something that would be heartier, tangier, and, well, meatier. Beef would have to enter the picture, as would some sort of moistener. And throwing some bacon on top wouldn't hurt a bit. I read through a ton of recipes. Some seemed overly involved, some too basic, but the theme I kept running up against was a sauce spread across the top and mixed into the meat that was just too sweet. I have nothing against ketchup, but I also can't take it in 1/2 cup portions! So I tinkered with some sauce and relish recipes and came up with one that is quite tasty, keeps everything nice and moist, and expertly straddles that fine line between sweet and savory.

As for the meat, keeping it simple is good. I realize that veal is a traditional partner to the beef and pork, but I always have a hard time finding it at the store, unless it's pre-ground with its partners, and I just don't go for that sort of thing. I have no doubt that if you use one of those prepared meat mixtures you'll be just fine, but I opt for beef and pork only. The bread you use in the mixture is up to you - white bread is the norm, though I never find that on my kitchen counter. I used a few slices of a loaf I made from the fabulous Mark Bittman recipe in the New York Time Dining section.

To accompany our loaf, a simple bowl of roasted broccoli, mushrooms, and carrots, all sprinkled with some Parmigiano and olive oil, and a bowl of rich, cream-infused mashed potatoes with scallions. Not the most heart-healthy dinner, but the red wine that we drank with it may have offset the damage somewhat. A 1992 Ravenswood Gregory Vineyard Cabernet (courtesy of Robert Jordan) was the perfect partner. I realize that early 90's Cab isn't going to grace everyone's table, but pick something nice and big, with sufficient tannin and acidity to brace the heft of the meat, and you'll be just fine. As for the Ravenswood, to look at it in the glass, it would be impossible to peg this as 16 year-old wine. Still almost purple-black, with the most gorgeous nose of deep, bleeding cassis and herbs. The fruit was just beautiful. Perhaps to pinch us back into reality, the tannins showed their age in the mouth, just barely creeping in around the edges, while ripe acidity keep all that fruit in check. Awesomely long finish, and perfect with the loaf.

Balsamic Tomato Relish

1 onion, finely minced
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 red bell pepper, finely minced
2 plum tomatoes, cored and minced
1 bay leaf
1.5 cups ketchup
1/2 cup Dijon mustard
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon soy sauce
salt and freshly ground pepper

Meatloaf mixture

1 pound ground beef
1 pound ground pork
2 or 3 slices good bread, crusts removed
1/4 cup whole milk or half & half
1 cup cooled Balsamic relish
salt and pepper
1 teaspoon fresh thyme, chopped
4 slices of bacon

Make the relish: In a medium saucepan, heat a few tablespoons of olive oil over medium heat and add the onion, garlic, and bay leaf. Cook until fragrant and translucent, then add the bell pepper and cook for 1-2 minutes until softened. Add the tomato, stir to combine, then add the ketchup, mustard, vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, soy sauce, and salt and pepper to taste. Reduce the heat to low and let it bubble slowly for 5-10 minutes, until thickened. Taste for salt, then let cool.

Make the meatloaf: In a small bowl, crumble the bread into small pieces with your hands and pour over the milk. Let that sit for a minute or so, then squeeze out the bread to remove excess milk. In a large bowl, mash together with your fingers the meat, eggs, bread, relish, thyme, and salt and pepper. I usually use about 1 teaspoon of kosher salt and ten or fifteen grinds of black pepper (since there's already salt and pepper in the relish), but if you would like to check for seasoning, just fry up a little pinch of the mixture in a pan with some olive oil and taste.

Heat your oven to 350 degrees. Form a loaf on a lightly oiled baking sheet, spread about 1/2 cup of the relish over the loaf, and then lay the bacon slices across the loaf lengthwise. Bake for about an hour and a half, or until the bacon looks cooked and crisped. The internal temperature will be around 160 degrees. Remove from the oven and let the loaf rest for about 5 minutes before slicing and serving. Serve any remaining relish on the side, or if you're like Janina, a good dollop of ketchup will be all the extra sauce you'll need.

Comfortably serves 6-8

Wine & Cheese #1

One of the most frequent and puzzled questions I hear at wine tastings, classes, and the like is which wines go with which cheeses. Even more than pairing wine with dinner, an unparalleled anxiety exists in this wine-cheese match. No doubt people already have hang-ups about wine and cheese on their own. With so many varieties of each, with the encyclopedia of names and countries and, yes, sometimes conceit, scratching the surface can seem intimidating and overwhelming. The key here, as I always tell nervous and eager classes of tasters, is to take a deep breath and relax. It’s just wine. It’s just cheese. Getting to the bottom of this question requires eating and drinking considerable amounts of both. Consider, too, that no one will expect you to learn the ins and outs of wine regions and cheese aging in one day. The most important thing is to feel comfortable. Enjoy yourself. If I can get someone to think about what they’re tasting and why it works or doesn’t (or even just whether they like it or not), then I feel like I’ve done my job.

Another distraction from a clear picture of wine and cheese pairing is the conflicting advice that springs up in every article written on the subject. The constant back and forth of “red is better!” no, “white is better!” only serves to confuse and frustrate. Since most people already feel vulnerable with the topic, such vacillation has the effect of turning folks off to the subject altogether. By learning and thinking about things one step at a time, the mysterious realm of fine wine and cheese will become much more transparent. Plus, you’ll be able to impress all your friends, and that’s never a bad thing, right?

First, let’s talk about what makes these two foods (yes, I always thing about wine as a food) so special on their own. Both wine and cheese begin their lives as relatively simple raw materials. Grapes and yeast team up to transform mere juice into a liquid that speaks of almost anything but the juice that bore it. With cheese, a combination of milk, rennet, and salt yields a food that beguiles tasters with its myriad of textures and its depth of flavor. These two foods can rise to incredible complexity, despite their humble beginnings.

To imagine what different wines and cheese will taste like together, it might be instructive to step back and think about how each tastes on its own. Ultimately any wine and cheese pairing will taste good, provided you like each player individually. The ideal, of course, is to choose two or three partners to complement and enhance one another. This is where the fun begins.

Consider, if you will, a fresh goat cheese, its flavor peppery and tangy. Its freshness might make you imagine the cheese having been made just hours before you tasted it. The texture is creamy but airy, a substantial bolt of flavor that never feels heavy or lumbering. In short, it’s lively but light. Now imagine a wine that might taste just right with this cheese. Do the same adjectives spring to mind? Do you want tangy with tangy? Maybe so, in which case the world would still turn and you will still be eating cheese and drinking wine.

I might suggest, instead, a wine that is a bit softer, that can allow you to enjoy the bite of the cheese as well as the smoothness of the wine together. Instead of having two assertive flavors crowding the picture, the softer wine can frame the cheese’s urge to show off. Some wines that come to mind are northern Italian whites like young friulano, fuller pinot gris and Italian pinot grigio, and fruitier sauvignon blanc. These wines all share the good fortune of being tasty, soft, and easy to drink. Plus, they’ll pair perfectly with some nice, fresh goat cheese.

Let’s take another cheese, something known for its brash flavors, something stinky and blue like Roquefort. These blues’ flavors are quite intense, at once salty and earthy and pungent. Nothing subtle here. Like the goat cheese, a good idea would be to let the cheese shine, lest you get exhausted by too much forceful flavor. I happen to love salty and sweet together, each sensation enhancing the other by stimulating more of my taste buds. Think of a light sprinkling of coarse sea salt over a warm chocolate cake. Delicious. Something lightly sweet would help to soften the blue’s blow. At the same time you don’t want the wine to wither, so a white with some personality of its own, like a lively gewürztraminer or a stony, minerally riesling would be perfect. These whites are both light, but they have enough going on so that they can still be heard above the din of the cheese’s flavors. Think about the cheese as a fine painting; a busy picture of dancing girls by Toulouse-Lautrec wouldn’t look quite right in a plain wood frame. A little rococo doesn’t detract from the painting, it just makes it more fun.

As you might imagine, these suggestions are just that. Nothing is written in stone when it comes to these pairings, and the most important thing is getting your hands on high quality cheese and wine. You’ll notice that I haven’t mentioned any specific wines, and that is no mistake. Go out and try several different gewuztraminers or rieslings or sauvignon blancs, and see what you like. The best way to do this is to ask questions and to trust the knowledge and experience of those who make it their job to think about these things.

Next month we’ll dive deeper into other common cheeses and with which wines they play well. Until then have fun, and whatever you do, think about what you’re eating!

All the Newsletters, Finally

At long last, I am finally putting up links to all the newsletters that I write for the shop. These pages are what got me writing about food and wine in the first place, and thanks to my general discomfort writing on a blog, they hold the bulk of that writing still.

The first few issues are already up here, so this post will cover just, oh, the last year and a half or so. How's that for procrastination?

November 2006 - All sorts of Thanksgiving goodness. Turkey Pot Pie, Granny Smith Apple Tart, etc. Plus lots of wine, of course.

December 2006 - This month's rag gives a whole bunch of fantastic party recipes, for the holidays or not. Plus, the party that these dishes were designed for gave us many great things - the exchange of East African fertility dolls, among other absurd gifts, and the classic Robert-Coleman throwdown.

January 2007 - A low key issue highlighting easy, stress-free recipes. This also has the herb roasted and goat cheese pasta that I made the night I proposed to Janina. So if you're feeling romantic and you can dig up a bottle of Marylin Remark Rousanne then heck, you can almost recreate that night.

February 2007 - I love lamb. Just read this issue. Please.

March 2007 - A lot of these issues from last year were theme oriented. That is to say that I liked to write about lamb, or Spanish food, or in this case, risotto. Risotto is yummy, don't you think? Plus, there's nothing better in this world than the arancini in this issue.

April 2007 - I love North African food, and you should give it a try if you haven't yet.

May 2007 - Ah, springtime. Time for birds and flowers and turkey burgers on the grill. Kostas Greek Restaurant in Buffalo will always hold a special place in my heart for their having inspired one of these recipes.

July 2007 - You didn't read that wrong - I gave the newsletter a rest this last June because I really needed to get married and go to Italy. What emerged from that trip was a soul-infusing love of Tuscan and Umbrian food and a great urge to cook it constantly and write as much as I could about it. For those of you who read this blog, you'll no doubt notice a lopsided number of pasta recipes. Look to this issue as the culprit.

August 2007 - A treasure trove of great summertime recipes. Pop a beer and read away...

September 2007 - My dad is right: Timing is Everything. I couldn't have met a better couple of people, and right as I was about to start writing this issue, to boot. Sarah and Nat Delafield import fair trade organic Madagascar vanilla. Check out their website at From the Field Trading, and for god's sake - buy their vanilla!!!

October 2007 - More geographical themes: This time from Seattle, Washington, our visit with our friends Deepa and Erich, not to mention Bob and Carmen Betz, inspired a whole lot of thinking about what good and wine are really about. Salmon and pork, what more would you want?

November 2007 - Just kidding. Thanksgiving was just too crazy this year at the shop for me to get any writing done. Sorry about that, but I hope you like the link.

December 2007 - Consider this a make-up for no Thanksgiving issue. The brussels sprouts are so tasty. And who knew how popular they're getting these days, hm?

Fellowship News - I Got One!

Hello again. I'm getting all psyched up to go out to California in a few weeks and meet a whole bunch of other food and wine writers for a few days at the Symposium for Professional Wine Writers. My head's spinning a little bit since I was awarded a fellowship by Peju Province Winery to attend the symposium. I sent in a writing sample as a pipe dream, never realizing that they would choose someone who wasn't technically published yet. But to look at the list of fellowship recipients I am definitely the rookie, so there you go.
Though I have been very interested over the last year or so in pursuing this sort of writing as a potential career, I am usually so hung up selling wine to actually think about the writing end of things that I find so gratifying. This news has definitely put a little fire under me to get up and put more material on this blog and to get samples and articles out to magazines and publishers. We'll see what happens...