Meatloaf is So Tasty

Yes, that's right, meatloaf. I remember years ago when I would cringe every time my dad told us it was meatloaf night. I'm not sure why I detested it so. I wasn't a particularly picky eater, but perhaps the ground turkey texture just threw me off.

So for the last few weeks I've been thinking about a new approach, something that would be heartier, tangier, and, well, meatier. Beef would have to enter the picture, as would some sort of moistener. And throwing some bacon on top wouldn't hurt a bit. I read through a ton of recipes. Some seemed overly involved, some too basic, but the theme I kept running up against was a sauce spread across the top and mixed into the meat that was just too sweet. I have nothing against ketchup, but I also can't take it in 1/2 cup portions! So I tinkered with some sauce and relish recipes and came up with one that is quite tasty, keeps everything nice and moist, and expertly straddles that fine line between sweet and savory.

As for the meat, keeping it simple is good. I realize that veal is a traditional partner to the beef and pork, but I always have a hard time finding it at the store, unless it's pre-ground with its partners, and I just don't go for that sort of thing. I have no doubt that if you use one of those prepared meat mixtures you'll be just fine, but I opt for beef and pork only. The bread you use in the mixture is up to you - white bread is the norm, though I never find that on my kitchen counter. I used a few slices of a loaf I made from the fabulous Mark Bittman recipe in the New York Time Dining section.

To accompany our loaf, a simple bowl of roasted broccoli, mushrooms, and carrots, all sprinkled with some Parmigiano and olive oil, and a bowl of rich, cream-infused mashed potatoes with scallions. Not the most heart-healthy dinner, but the red wine that we drank with it may have offset the damage somewhat. A 1992 Ravenswood Gregory Vineyard Cabernet (courtesy of Robert Jordan) was the perfect partner. I realize that early 90's Cab isn't going to grace everyone's table, but pick something nice and big, with sufficient tannin and acidity to brace the heft of the meat, and you'll be just fine. As for the Ravenswood, to look at it in the glass, it would be impossible to peg this as 16 year-old wine. Still almost purple-black, with the most gorgeous nose of deep, bleeding cassis and herbs. The fruit was just beautiful. Perhaps to pinch us back into reality, the tannins showed their age in the mouth, just barely creeping in around the edges, while ripe acidity keep all that fruit in check. Awesomely long finish, and perfect with the loaf.

Balsamic Tomato Relish

1 onion, finely minced
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 red bell pepper, finely minced
2 plum tomatoes, cored and minced
1 bay leaf
1.5 cups ketchup
1/2 cup Dijon mustard
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon soy sauce
salt and freshly ground pepper

Meatloaf mixture

1 pound ground beef
1 pound ground pork
2 or 3 slices good bread, crusts removed
1/4 cup whole milk or half & half
1 cup cooled Balsamic relish
salt and pepper
1 teaspoon fresh thyme, chopped
4 slices of bacon

Make the relish: In a medium saucepan, heat a few tablespoons of olive oil over medium heat and add the onion, garlic, and bay leaf. Cook until fragrant and translucent, then add the bell pepper and cook for 1-2 minutes until softened. Add the tomato, stir to combine, then add the ketchup, mustard, vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, soy sauce, and salt and pepper to taste. Reduce the heat to low and let it bubble slowly for 5-10 minutes, until thickened. Taste for salt, then let cool.

Make the meatloaf: In a small bowl, crumble the bread into small pieces with your hands and pour over the milk. Let that sit for a minute or so, then squeeze out the bread to remove excess milk. In a large bowl, mash together with your fingers the meat, eggs, bread, relish, thyme, and salt and pepper. I usually use about 1 teaspoon of kosher salt and ten or fifteen grinds of black pepper (since there's already salt and pepper in the relish), but if you would like to check for seasoning, just fry up a little pinch of the mixture in a pan with some olive oil and taste.

Heat your oven to 350 degrees. Form a loaf on a lightly oiled baking sheet, spread about 1/2 cup of the relish over the loaf, and then lay the bacon slices across the loaf lengthwise. Bake for about an hour and a half, or until the bacon looks cooked and crisped. The internal temperature will be around 160 degrees. Remove from the oven and let the loaf rest for about 5 minutes before slicing and serving. Serve any remaining relish on the side, or if you're like Janina, a good dollop of ketchup will be all the extra sauce you'll need.

Comfortably serves 6-8